Europe at the Edge – Part 6: Warsaw to Kaniow and Auschwitz

After our long flight into Warsaw, we allowed ourselves time to discover the Polish capital. The city greeted us with sunshine, bustling streets, and a remarkable blend of history and modernity.

We explored the Royal Castle and Castle Square, admired the Presidential Palace, and stepped inside beautifully restored churches, their stained-glass windows telling stories of resilience. From quirky cafés in the old town to quiet moments by the Vistula River, Warsaw proved to be a city full of contrasts. In the afternoon we crossed the river by e-scooter, the skyline of Warsaw rising ahead of us, a modern counterpart to the old town’s cobbled streets.

The Royal Castle – once destroyed, now beautifully rebuilt as a symbol of Poland’s resilience.

The Presidential Palace in Warsaw, seat of Polish heads of state since the 17th century.
My mother Mija once had a dog like this, named Ollie

Exploring Warsaw’s old town, where history and daily life meet.
Crossing the bridge by e-scooter, with the modern skyline of Warsaw rising in the background
Relaxing by the Vistula River – the perfect spot to take in Warsaw’s summer vibe.

Two nights here gave us the chance to rest and refuel, both ourselves and the Blackwing. With full tanks and clear skies, we prepared for the next stage of our journey further south.

Fjord Aviation Products: Aircraft Fueling Wing Mat AFP-1824, protecting the wing during refuelling

Heading South – Kaniow Airfield

With unfavourable weather forecast over Sweden, we adjusted our plans once again. Instead of flying north, we set course for Kaniow airfield in southern Poland.

Bye bye Warshaw
Young Sodermans in action

The Blackwing cruising above the cloud layers on the way south.

SkyDemon’s pilot notes mentioned that the owner could be “a bit unusual”, yet helpful and welcoming. His name: Marian. Notes also indicated that there were no landing fees if fuel was purchased, and that both SP98 and Avgas were available. Most intriguingly, Marian could also arrange transport to Auschwitz and Birkenau.

Marian’s Field – built from scratch

When we arrived, it quickly became clear that Marian was not strange at all, but rather a true aviation pioneer. His English was limited, which may explain why some pilots misunderstand him, yet his story is remarkable. He had literally built the airfield from scratch, transforming it into a welcoming place for General Aviation.


With Marian, the founder of Kaniow airfield – a true aviation pioneer

True to his reputation, he arranged transport for us. His son drove us to Auschwitz, a place Alejandro, now old enough, was ready to experience with full awareness.


Entrance tickets to Auschwitz – a place that leaves no visitor untouched.

Auschwitz – the weight of history

Every European has heard of Auschwitz, yet walking through it in person is an entirely different matter. The barbed wire, the barracks, the scale of systematic destruction – it leaves an indelible mark.

What struck me most was how quickly the Nazis, after seizing power in the 1930s, began setting up camps near Munich to imprison political opponents. What started as intimidation evolved into industrialised genocide. Auschwitz confronts you with the machinery of this horror on a scale that words can barely convey.

« Arbeit macht Frei » sign at the entrance of the Auschwitz Nazi camp

The silence of the camp speaks louder than any explanation. After this, we chose not to continue to Birkenau. It was enough – more than enough.

Back at the Airfield

Returning to Kaniow, Marian was waiting for us. A small complication emerged: there was no SP98 available, only SP95 E10 mogas. Although my Rotax engine manual permits it, I do not trust this fuel. For me, reliability is paramount. Instead, I opted to fully refuel with Avgas, which gave me peace of mind for the Blackwing.

With full tanks and heavy thoughts still in our minds, we departed Kaniow later that day, turning westwards towards Ostrava in the Czech Republic.

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